Bir Beyond Billing - The Monsoon Escapade

What is Bir like in monsoon, and more so for those who would rather follow the call of the wild than to catch the wind in the air?

Whoever chooses to come to Bir is well-prepared to glide with the breeze when they take off from the meadow called Billing and descend from an astonishing altitude of 8000 feet (around 2400 meters) above sea level. 

However, come August, and three souls unexpectedly found themselves exploring the quaint little village of Bir—the renowned paragliding capital of India and the landing site—for reasons far removed from the obvious thrill of flying. Understandably, all plans to roam and ride never go as expected once the monsoon season hits, let alone soar high in the sky. And so, we were just happy to witness the Joginder Nagar Valley’s flourishing beauty in all its glory as we headed to our destination.

It took us around 2.5 hours to reach Bir from Dharamashala in Himachal Pradesh. When we left, it was raining. One would expect the same along the way. After all, how different could it be for an approx. 67 km journey? If not for drizzle or rain, at least the dense fog enveloping the valley was awaited, thanks to our last homestay at Zostel McLeod.

Monsoons are full of surprises. As far as the eyes could see, the sky was sunny and clear. At distance, tiny homes nestled among the green pasture against the mountainous ranges evoked a serene landscape. The scenery quickly changed to shimmery streams as they meandered through the forest, while in the distance, a rugged mountain loomed and played peekaboo. Though the weather was pleasant and perfect, to say the least, the rapids and rush of the streams signaled the rejuvenating power of the monsoons. 

The slow life was evident. No rush but we crossed many resorts and homestays. Our route to Bir took us through Palampur and Baijnath. Since we had a direct cab, there was no need to stop for an interchange at either of these locations. On the way, I saw a glimpse of Baijnath Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva (a half-hour drive away from the Bir) and several Buddhist monasteries. Once we were there, it didn’t take us long to decide on our stay when the cab dropped us at Bir Road, just outside the Hosteller.

The Road Twice Trodden 

The day passed leisurely as we relaxed for a while, explored the property, and took in the stunning views of green, blue, and white from our outdoor spot before eventually deciding to go for a walk. In the market, flags fluttered proudly atop the shop roofs, marking the 78th Independence Day. For a small village like Bir, it sure knows how to keep the modernity in check and in sync with the traditional culture and values. Every step, every breath, and every vista soothed the eyes and the existence of our being.

A monk from Nyingyang Monastery

We must have merely walked 250 m when we arrived at a Buddhist monastery—a monk from Nyingyang Monastery. Seeing Buddhist monks and resident students had me idealizing a similar kind of world when Gurukul—the ancient traditional system of education in India—was in practice. We went inside the prayer hall. Nonetheless, the walls and pillars, wherever the eyes could see, were adorned with vibrant paintings, each rich in religious symbolism. The prayer hall had three seated statues with Buddha gracefully positioned at the center. Spirituality and tranquility dawned even at the hour of dusk here.

Bir and Boba 

Another 100 m ahead, and we stumbled upon the most interesting finding of our stay at Bir - Bir & Boba, an anime-inspired beverage tea shop. Here you can order fresh smoothies, shakes, bubble tea, and get to know everything about BOBA—a gluten-free, chewy little pearls mixed with your choice of flavor, including Vanilla, Strawberry, Blueberry, Peach, Grapes, etc. Their specialty drink is Matcha Boba. Where Matcha is a Japanese powdered green tea, high in antioxidants, the Thai word ‘Boba’ is a tapioca black pearl settled at the bottom of the drinks when it is presented either as smoothy or tea. What’s more? If you love anime, you can sit, relax, sip, and read a few famous manga here, including Jujutsu Kaisen, Demon Slayer, Black Clover, and One Punch Man.

Food with a View 

As the sun dipped toward the horizon, we wandered the streets, savoring the last moments of our Bir Road exploration. Our final stop was a cozy food point, just 750 meters from our stay. We ordered chai, sooji chilla, and paratha and settled on the rooftop terrace, where we watched the sun set in a breathtaking display of colors. Across the street, an entertainment center, Amuzium Museum Illusion, stood with a few more shops inviting visitors to indulge in some retail therapy—though the museum itself was closed. As we made our way back through the evening, the buzz and hum of insects filled the air, creating a gentle soundtrack for the night. It felt different—almost like a gift—to walk freely and securely after sunset, a quiet reminder of how lucky we were to experience such a peaceful evening as women.

Rocky cliff and the hidden waterfall trek 

The next day, we set our sights on the Gunehar Hidden Waterfall. It took us approx. 20–25 minutes to arrive here. The trek to this place is nothing short of spectacular. There are hidden and treacherous routes, one after the other. A few routes, one might meander to arrive at the top and breathe in nature’s raw and fierce beauty, but a guide is a must even for adventure seekers. 

The Banghodu waterfall, also known as Bheem Pather Waterfall in Gunaid village, is a sight to behold. Reaching here requires scaling steep rocks and carefully maneuvering across slippery surfaces. For us, the trek's difficulty level ranged from moderate to high, amplified by the monsoon season's rains. It was a once-in-a-lifetime kind of experience and truly magical to feel the powerful presence of nature’s mystical elements (earth, wind, water, and space).

Place: Bir, Joginder Nagar Valley, Dhauladhar Range

Location:  32.04°N, 76.72°E at Baijnath, in District Kangra, Himachal Pradesh

Travel Date: August 15-16, 2024